Just 10 km southeast of Faro, Olhão is a bustling beach resort famous for its splendid beaches. However, until recently, it was a sleepy fishing port best known for its colourful fish and vegetable markets and remarkable sea journey. In 1808 a small vessel called “O Caíque de Bom Sucesso” sailed from Olhão, across the Atlantic, to Rio de Janeiro to inform the exiled Portuguese King João VI that Napoleon’s army had left the country. As a reward, the town was granted a royal charter and developed as a fishing port and canning centre. To commemorate this extraordinary feat, a replica of the vessel is moored in the harbour opposite the market.
The lively red brick fish and vegetable markets right on the seafront are the centre of social life in Olhão. From here, visitors can choose between the town’s two main activities. They can wander the whitewashed old part of town, including the 17th century Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário and the adjacent chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos, where the wives and families of sailors would gather to pray for their safety. Or catch a ferry to the islands of Armona and Culatra in the Ria Formosa Natural Park.
Separate ferries sail out to the islands. Armona is the nearest, just 15 minutes away. It is a 15-minute walk from the ferry terminal along a path lined with little bungalows and bougainvillaea bushes to the dunes and beach on the other side of the island. A long walk along Armona beach will bring you to Praia da Fuseta, opposite the small fishing port of Fuseta.
The ferry to Ilha da Culatra takes 35 minutes to its fishing port and then a further 10 minutes to Farol, from where it is a short walk to the excellent beach close to the lighthouse.
Those wanting to learn more about the ecology of the area and the rare Portuguese Water Dog breed can visit the Quinta da Marim (Centro Educação Ambiental de Marim). This educational centre and HQ of the Ria Formosa Natural Park has a nature trail winding through the dunes and salt flats. There are also five Roman salting tanks and one of Portugal’s last remaining tidal mills. The 60-hectare site is a 3km ride on the local bus.
Our favourite place to stay in Olhão is the Convento, a boutique B&B that reminds us of the Moroccan riads. Hidden in the medina of this charming fishing town, what used to be a small convent has been turned into a delightful nine-bedroom house. It has a rooftop pool, two shady terraces, a library, and dreamy white bedrooms with bathrooms fitted out in Portuguese marble. https://www.conventoolhao.com/
Our favourite place to eat in Olhão is O Horta, a large family-friendly restaurant just a stone’s throw from the market overlooking the Ria Formosa. The restaurant is well known for its regional seafood dishes in large terracotta pots, such as seafood rice and cataplana, and its rich selection of fresh fish. https://www.restauranteohorta.pt/
